Bearded Dragon Diet: Complete Feeding Guide by Age
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What do bearded dragons eat? Insects and plants, in a ratio that reverses as they age. That is the whole answer, and yet feeding a bearded dragon still sounds simple only until you start reading conflicting advice. Some sources say insects daily for life. Others say crickets are toxic. Pet stores push mealworms while experienced keepers warn against them. This bearded dragon diet guide settles it: what to feed at every age, how often, how much, what to avoid, and how to supplement so your beardie thrives for the next 10-15 years.
- What Do Bearded Dragons Eat? The Short Answer
- Are Bearded Dragons Carnivores or Herbivores?
- Feeding Schedule by Age
- How Much Should My Bearded Dragon Eat?
- Best Feeder Insects
- Insects to Avoid or Limit
- Daily Greens & Vegetables
- What Vegetables Can Bearded Dragons Eat?
- Bearded Dragon Staple Foods
- Fruit (Treats Only)
- Foods to Never Feed
- Bearded Dragon Food List
- Calcium & Supplements
- Gut Loading Insects
- Water & Hydration
- Common Feeding Problems
- Pro Tips for Picky Eaters
- FAQ
What Do Bearded Dragons Eat? The Short Answer
Bearded dragons eat insects and plants, and the ratio between the two flips as they grow. A hatchling eats mostly bugs. An adult eats mostly salad. Nearly everything else in this guide is detail layered on top of that one fact.
Day to day, what bearded dragons eat falls into four groups:
- Feeder insects — dubia roaches, crickets, and black soldier fly larvae as the workhorses, with hornworms and silkworms as occasional treats. This is the protein and fat.
- Leafy greens — collard, mustard, turnip, and dandelion greens. This becomes the daily base of an adult diet.
- Vegetables — squash, bell pepper, and similar, chopped small and mixed through the greens.
- Fruit — small amounts once or twice a week at most. A treat, not a food group.
| Age | Insects | Plants | Insect feedings |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hatchling (0-3 months) | 80% | 20% | 3-5 times daily |
| Juvenile (3-12 months) | 50-70% | 30-50% | 1-3 times daily |
| Adult (12+ months) | 20% | 80% | 2-3 times weekly (every other day from 12-18 months) |
Fresh greens go into the enclosure every day at every age, including for hatchlings who will mostly ignore them at first. Early on the habit matters more than the quantity.
Are Bearded Dragons Carnivores or Herbivores?
Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning they eat both animal protein and plant matter. But the ratio shifts as they grow, and this is where most new owners get confused.
In the wild, juvenile bearded dragons need huge amounts of protein to fuel rapid growth — they spend most of their time hunting insects. As they mature, their hunting drive decreases and they shift toward foraging plants, flowers, and the occasional insect they stumble across.
Captive beardies follow this same biological pattern. Feeding an adult the same insect-heavy diet you fed them as a hatchling causes obesity, fatty liver disease, and a shortened lifespan. Conversely, feeding a juvenile too few insects stunts growth and triggers metabolic bone disease.
Match the diet to the age. That’s the single most important rule.
Feeding Schedule by Age
| Age | Insect/Greens Ratio | Insects per Meal | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0-3 months (hatchling) | 80% insects / 20% greens | 20-40 small insects | 3-5 times daily |
| 3-6 months | 70% insects / 30% greens | 15-30 insects | 2-3 times daily |
| 6-12 months | 50/50 | 10-20 insects | 1-2 times daily |
| 12-18 months (young adult) | 30% insects / 70% greens | 10-15 insects | Greens daily, insects every other day |
| 18+ months (full adult) | 20% insects / 80% greens | 10-15 insects | Greens daily, insects 2-3x weekly |
How Much Should My Bearded Dragon Eat?
The per-meal counts in the table above are a starting point, not a prescription. Two beardies of the same age can differ by a third in appetite and both be healthy. Portion by behaviour rather than by number: insects go by the timed rule below, and greens go in as a loose handful of chopped material roughly the size of the animal’s head, topped up during the day if it gets eaten down.
The 10-15 Minute Rule
For insect feedings, offer as many bugs as your beardie will eat in 10-15 minutes. Whatever isn’t eaten in that window should be removed (loose crickets bite sleeping beardies). This self-regulating method works better than counting precise quantities.
Greens Should Always Be Available
Even for hatchlings, fresh chopped greens should be in the enclosure during daylight hours. They may ignore them at first, but exposure builds the habit. By six months, most beardies actively seek out greens.
Fasting Days
Adults benefit from one or two fasting days per week (no insects, just greens). This mimics natural feeding patterns and prevents obesity, which is rampant in captive bearded dragons.
Best Feeder Insects
Two years into keeping, I switched from crickets to dubia roaches and the difference wasn’t just nutritional — it was operational. No more escaped crickets in the walls, no more chirping at 3am, no more dead-cricket smell when I missed a cleanout. Dubia run a quiet colony you can almost forget about between feedings. The transition with my dragons took maybe a week — they were initially suspicious of the slower-moving prey but adapted quickly. The other thing nobody tells you: dubia produce far less frass than crickets, so the actual maintenance burden drops significantly once you switch. If you’re on the fence about which feeder to commit to, the smell-and-noise difference alone makes dubia worth the upgrade.
Dubia Roaches (Top Choice)
If you raise just one feeder insect, make it dubia roaches. They’re the gold standard for several reasons:
- Best protein-to-fat ratio of any common feeder
- Higher calcium content than crickets
- Nearly silent — no chirping
- No odor when kept clean
- Can’t climb smooth surfaces — escapees stay contained
- Don’t bite sleeping beardies the way crickets do
- Long lifespan — they keep for months in a colony bin
Dubias are illegal in Florida and Hawaii due to invasive species concerns. If you live there, consider discoid roaches as a near-equivalent alternative. For full feeding details see our dubia roaches guide.
Crickets
The most widely available feeder. Solid nutrition, but they have downsides:
- Loud chirping
- Strong odor when kept in groups
- Short lifespan (1-2 weeks max)
- Will bite a sleeping beardie if left in the tank overnight
- Jump and hide, making them harder to dose
Banded crickets are slightly hardier than common house crickets if you have the choice. See our crickets guide for prep and gut-loading details, or see our dedicated gut loading guide for the full process and product options.
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL / Phoenix Worms/ Calci-Worms)
These small, naturally calcium-rich larvae are excellent — sometimes sold under the brand name Calci-Worms. The high calcium content means you can dust less often. Their soft bodies make them safe for babies and easy to digest. Slightly more expensive than crickets but worth it for variety.
Hornworms
Bright green caterpillars that grow rapidly. High water content makes them excellent for hydration, especially in dry climates or for beardies recovering from illness. They’re treats — not a staple — because they’re high in moisture but lower in protein. Pro tip: refrigerating them slows growth and extends shelf life.
Silkworms
Soft-bodied, highly nutritious, easily digestible, and high in calcium. The downside: expensive and require fresh mulberry leaves or commercial silkworm chow to keep alive. Excellent for picky eaters and convalescing beardies.
Discoid Roaches
Similar to dubia but legal in Florida. Slightly larger when adult, otherwise nearly identical nutritionally.
Insects to Avoid or Limit
Mealworms (Limit Severely)
Often the first feeder pet stores recommend, mealworms are actually one of the worst staple choices:
- Hard chitin shell is difficult to digest, especially for juveniles — impaction risk
- High fat, low protein ratio
- Low calcium with poor calcium-to-phosphorus ratio
Adults can have a few occasionally as treats. Don’t make them a staple. See our mealworms guide for why and what to feed instead.
Superworms (Adults Only, Sparingly)
Larger than mealworms with the same chitin issue but higher fat content. Good as an occasional treat for adult beardies — never for hatchlings or juveniles. Maximum 1-2 per week.
Wax Worms (Treat Only)
Extremely high in fat. Beardies love them. Think of them like ice cream — fine occasionally, dangerous as a regular item. Use as a treat to encourage picky eaters or hide medication. Maximum 1-2 per week.
Butterworms (Treat Only)
Higher in calcium than wax worms but still very fatty. Similar treat-only status.
Wild-Caught Insects (Avoid Completely)
Never feed insects you’ve caught outside. Risks include:
- Pesticide residue
- Parasites (especially gut worms)
- Toxic insect species (fireflies are deadly to reptiles)
- Unknown disease exposure
Sizing Insects Correctly
The universal rule: insects should be no larger than the space between your beardie’s eyes. Anything larger risks impaction, choking, or hindleg paralysis from pressure on the spine during digestion.
| Beardie Length | Cricket Size | Dubia Size |
|---|---|---|
| Under 6 inches (hatchling) | Pinhead / 1/4″ | 1/4″ nymphs |
| 6-12 inches (juvenile) | 3/8″ – 1/2″ | 1/2″ nymphs |
| 12-16 inches | 1/2″ – 3/4″ | 3/4″ – 1″ |
| 16+ inches (adult) | 3/4″ – adult | 1″ – small adult |
Daily Greens & Vegetables
Fresh chopped greens should be available every day, even when your beardie ignores them. Variety prevents nutritional gaps and keeps things interesting.
Daily Staple Greens (Best)
These have excellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratios and can be fed daily:
- Collard greens — the gold standard, high calcium
- Mustard greens — peppery, well-loved by most beardies
- Turnip greens — high in calcium and vitamin A
- Dandelion greens — extremely nutritious, beardie favorite
- Endive / escarole — mild flavor, high water content
- Watercress — calcium-rich
- Bok choy / pak choi — good rotational green
Weekly Variety Vegetables (2-3 Times Per Week)
- Squash — butternut, acorn, yellow squash, zucchini
- Bell peppers — red, yellow, orange (avoid green — slightly bitter and lower nutrition)
- Green beans — chopped fine
- Snap peas / sugar snap peas
- Okra
- Asparagus — chopped small
- Cactus pad / nopales — excellent calcium source if you can find it
Occasional Greens (Once Per Week or Less)
These are nutritionally fine but contain compounds that interfere with calcium absorption (oxalates) or thyroid function (goitrogens) when fed in excess:
- Kale (high in goitrogens)
- Spinach (high in oxalates)
- Beet greens
- Swiss chard
- Parsley
Greens to Avoid Entirely
- Iceberg lettuce — almost zero nutritional value, mostly water, can cause diarrhea
- Romaine lettuce — minimal nutrition; not toxic but not worth feeding
- Avocado — toxic to bearded dragons (contains persin)
- Onions, garlic, chives, leeks — toxic, cause anemia
- Rhubarb — extremely toxic, oxalic acid
- Mushrooms — toxic varieties hard to distinguish; avoid all
Preparation
Wash thoroughly to remove pesticides. Chop into pieces no larger than the space between your beardie’s eyes. Mix several types together for a balanced “salad” — see our complete salad recipes and ratios guide for exact staple combinations. A light spritz of water keeps it fresh and adds hydration.
What Vegetables Can Bearded Dragons Eat?
Vegetables and greens make up 70 to 80 percent of an adult bearded dragon’s diet, so this is not a garnish question. The thing that separates a good vegetable from a bad one is the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. Phosphorus binds calcium and blocks absorption, so anything with more phosphorus than calcium works against the animal no matter how nutritious it looks on a label.
Target a ratio of at least 1.5:1 calcium to phosphorus, and build the daily salad from the top group.
Daily Staples
| Vegetable | Ca:P ratio | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Collard greens | ~14.5:1 | The benchmark green. No meaningful drawbacks |
| Turnip greens | ~4.5:1 | Strong ratio, well accepted by picky eaters |
| Arugula | ~3.1:1 | Peppery. Brassica, so rotate rather than overuse |
| Dandelion greens | ~2.8:1 | Excellent ratio and high fibre |
| Mustard greens | ~2.4:1 | High calcium and vitamin A |
| Cactus pad (prickly pear) | ~2.3:1 | High calcium, hydrating, needs thorns removed |
| Endive and escarole | ~1.86:1 | Mild. Useful for dragons that reject peppery greens |
| Butternut and acorn squash | Favourable | Good vitamin A. Chop small |
Rotate three or four of these per salad. Variety inside the staple group beats reaching outside it.
Weekly or Twice Weekly
| Vegetable | Why it is limited |
|---|---|
| Watercress (~2:1) | Good ratio and low oxalate, but a brassica with goitrogens |
| Green cabbage (~2:1) | Goitrogens. Green is preferable to red, which is higher oxalate |
| Kale | Good ratio, but goitrogenic. Not a daily green |
| Bok choy | Decent ratio, same brassica caveat |
| Bell pepper | More phosphorus than calcium. Good for colour and interest |
| Green beans and snap peas | Fine in rotation, unremarkable ratio |
| Carrot | High beta-carotene. Tops are better than the root |
| Sweet potato | Inverted ratio. Small amounts, grated |
| Cucumber and zucchini (~1:2) | Mostly water with an inverted ratio. Hydrating, not nourishing |
Rarely, or Not at All
Spinach, beet greens, and swiss chard are high enough in oxalates to interfere with calcium absorption over time. Broccoli is goitrogenic. Iceberg lettuce is not dangerous, it is simply water with no nutritional content, and it fills a dragon up in place of food that would have fed it.
Never feed avocado, rhubarb, onion, garlic, chives, leeks, mushrooms, or eggplant. Those are toxic rather than merely poor.
Bearded Dragon Staple Foods: The Core Rotation
Staple foods are the items safe to feed regularly, in quantity, for the animal’s whole life. Everything else is a treat, a supplement, or a filler. Most feeding problems trace back to owners treating an occasional food as a staple, usually mealworms or fruit.
| Staple | Type | How often | Why it qualifies |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dubia roaches | Insect | Every insect feeding | Best protein-to-fat ratio, soft-bodied, good calcium ratio |
| Crickets | Insect | Every insect feeding | Widely available, good nutrition, easy to gut load |
| Black soldier fly larvae | Insect | Every insect feeding | Naturally calcium-rich, no dusting required |
| Collard greens | Green | Daily | Excellent calcium to phosphorus ratio, low oxalate |
| Mustard greens | Green | Daily | High calcium, high vitamin A |
| Turnip greens | Green | Daily | High calcium, well accepted by picky eaters |
| Dandelion greens | Green | Daily | Outstanding calcium ratio, high fiber |
| Butternut squash | Vegetable | Several times weekly | Good vitamin A, safe ratio, well accepted |
A practical rotation looks like this: two or three of the staple greens chopped together every morning, one squash or pepper mixed through for variety and colour, and a staple insect offered on the schedule for the animal’s age. Rotating within the staple list matters more than adding items from outside it. Variety inside a safe set beats novelty.
The foods that most often get mistaken for staples are mealworms (too much chitin, poor calcium ratio), superworms (high fat, adults only and sparingly), spinach and kale (oxalates and goitrogens, occasional only), and any fruit at all.
Fruit (Treats Only)
Fruit should make up 10% or less of your beardie’s diet. The high sugar content disrupts gut flora and can cause loose stools when overfed. Think of fruit like dessert — fine in small amounts, problematic as a staple.
Safe Fruits (Small Amounts)
- Berries — blueberries, raspberries, blackberries
- Strawberries (chopped, in small quantity)
- Mango (peeled and chopped)
- Papaya
- Kiwi (peeled, seeds are fine)
- Peaches (flesh only, pit removed)
- Melon — watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew
- Apple (peeled, no seeds)
- Pear (peeled)
- Banana (occasional — high phosphorus, throws off calcium ratio)
- Figs (excellent calcium when fresh)
Fruits to Avoid
- Citrus (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit) — too acidic, causes digestive upset
- Pineapple — too acidic; fine as a small occasional treat
- Grapes — high oxalates and sugar; many keepers avoid entirely
- Apple seeds — contain cyanide compounds
- Cherry pits — toxic and choking hazard
Foods to Never Feed
- Avocado — contains persin, toxic to most animals
- Rhubarb — oxalic acid, severe toxicity
- Onions, garlic, chives, leeks — cause hemolytic anemia
- Iceberg lettuce — not toxic but worthless and causes diarrhea
- Eggplant — high oxalates
- Beet tops in large amounts — high oxalates
- Fireflies / lightning bugs — deadly
- Wild-caught insects — pesticides, parasites
- Dairy products — beardies can’t digest lactose
- Bread, pasta, processed human food — no nutritional value, harmful additives
- Meat (beef, chicken, fish) — too much fat and protein for their kidneys
- Dog or cat food — formulated for mammals, not reptiles
- Salt, sugar, spices — never season anything
Bearded Dragon Food List: Safe, Limited, and Never
The full bearded dragon food list in one place. Everything above, sorted by how often it can appear rather than by what it is.
Feed Freely (Daily or Every Insect Feeding)
Insects: dubia roaches, crickets, black soldier fly larvae.
Greens: collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, escarole, endive.
Vegetables: butternut squash, acorn squash, yellow squash, bell pepper, green beans, snap peas.
Feed Occasionally (Weekly to Several Times Monthly)
Insects: hornworms, silkworms, phoenix worms, superworms (adults only), butterworms.
Greens and vegetables: watercress, kale, bok choy, cabbage, carrot, sweet potato, cucumber, zucchini, parsnip, okra.
Fruit: blueberries, raspberries, papaya, mango, apple, pear, watermelon, strawberries.
Feed Rarely or in Trace Amounts
Insects: mealworms, waxworms, pinky mice (breeding females and recovering animals only, under vet guidance).
Plants: spinach, beet greens, swiss chard, broccoli, banana, grapes, tomato, corn.
Never Feed
Toxic or dangerous: avocado, rhubarb, onion, garlic, chives, leeks, mushrooms, eggplant, iceberg lettuce (no nutritional value), citrus fruit, fireflies and any wild-caught insect, dairy, bread, and all processed human food.
When a food is not on this list, the safe default is to leave it out until you have checked it specifically. Novelty has no nutritional value to a bearded dragon, and the cost of guessing wrong ranges from a bad day to an emergency vet visit.
Calcium & Supplements
Even with excellent UVB lighting and a varied diet, captive bearded dragons need supplementation. The most common cause of preventable death in pet beardies is metabolic bone disease — and proper supplementation eliminates the risk. According to VCA Animal Hospitals, bearded dragons have a higher need for dietary calcium than phosphorus, especially when young and growing — and most feeder insects are naturally low in calcium, making dusting essential. (VCA Animal Hospitals)
Supplement Schedule
| Supplement | Hatchling/Juvenile | Adult |
|---|---|---|
| Calcium with D3 | 5 times per week | 2-3 times per week |
| Calcium without D3 | — | 1-2 times per week |
| Multivitamin | 1-2 times per week | 1 time per week |
How to Apply Supplements
Place insects in a small container, sprinkle a light dusting of supplement powder, and shake gently to coat. The insects should look powder-coated, not caked. Feed within a few minutes — beardies will sometimes lick the powder off if they take too long.
For greens, a light sprinkle on top works fine. Most of it will be eaten with the salad.
Why Two Different Calcium Products?
Calcium with D3 helps your beardie absorb calcium when UVB exposure is limited. Calcium without D3 is for keepers who run powerful UVB and want to avoid D3 toxicity from over-supplementation. Most owners just use calcium with D3 for the bulk of feedings — that’s perfectly safe with proper UVB.
Recommended Brands
- Repashy Calcium Plus LoD — all-in-one (calcium + D3 + multivitamin), simplifies the schedule
- Arcadia EarthPro-A — premium multivitamin
- Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 — affordable, widely available
- Zoo Med Reptivite — solid multivitamin
Signs of Calcium Deficiency (Early MBD)
Watch for these warning signs and address them immediately:
- Twitching toes or limbs
- Soft or rubbery jaw
- Wobbly or uncoordinated walking
- Bowed or deformed limbs
- Difficulty climbing or basking
- Constipation or runny stool
If you notice any of these, increase calcium with D3 to daily, verify your UVB bulb is fresh (under 12 months old), and schedule a vet visit. Early MBD is reversible. Advanced MBD often isn’t.
Gut Loading Insects
Your beardie eats what your insects eat. Feeding starved insects to a beardie is like eating empty calories. Properly gut-loaded insects deliver dramatically more nutrition. NC State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine notes that gut-loading — feeding insects a calcium-rich diet 24-72 hours prior — is the best way to ensure adequate calcium delivery, with dusting serving as a useful but secondary supplement. (NC State CVM)
Gut-Load Schedule
Feed your insects nutritious food for 24-48 hours before feeding them to your beardie. This loads their digestive tract with vitamins and minerals.
Best Gut-Load Foods
- Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion (same staples your beardie eats)
- Carrots
- Squash
- Sweet potato
- Bell pepper
- Apple slices (hydration)
- Commercial gut-load: Repashy Bug Burger, Arcadia InsectFuel, Mazuri Gut Loading Diet
Don’t Feed Your Insects
- Dog food (popular advice that’s outdated — too much fat and animal protein)
- Citrus fruits
- Anything you wouldn’t feed your beardie
Water & Hydration
Bearded dragons get most of their water from food, but hydration still matters.
Water Dish
Provide a shallow dish in the enclosure. Many beardies won’t drink from it, but it provides ambient humidity and an option. Refresh daily — beardies often poop in their water dish.
Bathing
Bathe your beardie 1-2 times per week in shallow lukewarm water (90-100°F) for 10-15 minutes. They often drink during baths and frequently poop in the warm water. Bonus: bathing helps with shedding.
Misting Greens
A light spritz of water on greens before serving adds hydration and makes them more appealing.
Signs of Dehydration
- Sunken eyes
- Wrinkled or saggy skin
- Sticky saliva or mucous in mouth
- Lethargy
- Reduced urate output (the white part of the poop)
If you see these, offer a bath, hydrating insects (hornworms), and consult an exotic vet if it persists more than 24-48 hours.
Common Feeding Problems
Beardie Won’t Eat Greens
Most common with juveniles or beardies whose previous owners only fed insects. Solutions:
- Mix bright-colored veggies (bell peppers, squash) into greens — visual appeal triggers interest
- Hide live BSFL or hornworms in the salad
- Lightly mist the greens (water makes them more visible)
- Feed greens first when hungry, hold off insects until later
- Be patient — it can take weeks of consistent exposure
Beardie Won’t Eat Insects
Possible causes:
- Brumation (seasonal sleeping period in adults)
- Recent shed
- Stress from a new environment
- Tank temps too low for digestion
- Illness — vet visit if it lasts more than 1-2 weeks
Overfeeding Adult Beardies
Obesity is rampant in captive bearded dragons. Signs include:
- Fat deposits on jaw, legs, and tail base
- Belly drags noticeably when walking
- Visible double chin or jowls
If your adult is overweight, cut insects to once per week, eliminate treats, and increase greens.
Picky Eaters Refusing All Food
Try variety. Different colors, different textures, different live insects. Use a paper towel or small dish for greens (some beardies hate eating off the substrate). Feed at the warmest part of the day. If your beardie hasn’t eaten in over 7-10 days outside brumation, see a vet.
Pro Tips for Picky Eaters
- Hand-feed greens. Movement triggers hunting instinct. Wiggle a piece of collard like a worm.
- Use bright colors. Top a salad with red bell pepper or shredded carrot — visual contrast attracts attention.
- Try edible flowers. Hibiscus, dandelion flowers, and rose petals (pesticide-free) are beardie favorites.
- Live insects on the salad. Hornworms wriggling on greens often results in the greens being eaten too.
- Consistent feeding spot. A dedicated dish in the same location builds routine.
- Morning feeds only. Most beardies have stronger appetites after a few hours of basking.
- Skip a day. A hungry beardie eats things they normally refuse.
- Verify your basking temperature. Below 95°F, digestion slows and appetite drops.
FAQ
How often should I feed my bearded dragon?
What’s the best feeder insect for bearded dragons?
Can bearded dragons eat fruit every day?
Why are mealworms bad for bearded dragons?
Do bearded dragons need calcium supplements if they have UVB?
Can bearded dragons eat lettuce?
How long can a bearded dragon go without eating?
Should I feed my bearded dragon in their tank or somewhere else?
The Bottom Line
Bearded dragon nutrition is straightforward once you understand the age-based shift from insect-heavy to greens-heavy. Feed dubia roaches, crickets, or BSFL as your insect staple. Offer collards, mustards, dandelion, and turnip greens as daily salad bases. Supplement with calcium plus D3 several times per week. Skip the toxic foods, limit fruit to occasional treats, and gut-load your insects 24-48 hours before feeding. For specific “can my beardie eat…” questions, browse our individual food guides — fruits: strawberries, blueberries, bananas, apples, watermelon, and grapes; greens: lettuce, spinach, and kale; and vegetables: carrots and tomatoes. For a quick searchable reference, our bearded dragon food database covers 70+ foods, and our care sheets have quick per-age-stage reference with Ca:P ratios and safety ratings. Use our Ca:P ratio calculator to check any food instantly.
Get the diet right and you’ll see the difference: vibrant color, healthy weight, strong bones, and a beardie that lives well into their teens. Pair this guide with our complete bearded dragon care guide, habitat setup guide, behavior guide, and health and wellness pillar for the full picture of bearded dragon care.
This article is for educational purposes and reflects current best practices in bearded dragon husbandry. Consult an exotic veterinarian for individual nutritional concerns.
For a specific look at one commonly asked-about vegetable, see our guide to feeding sweet potato.
For a specific look at another common protein-rich food, see our guide to feeding eggs.
Before you build out a feeding rotation, run it against our full list of foods bearded dragons should never eat — a few common kitchen staples are genuinely dangerous, not just “not ideal.”
For a feeder-by-feeder breakdown of protein, fat, and calcium ratios, see the complete list of insects bearded dragons eat.
For a vegetable-by-vegetable breakdown with calcium ratios and feeding frequency, see the full list of vegetables for bearded dragons.
For the short list of foods that carry no frequency limit at all, see the bearded dragon staple foods guide.
For herbs specifically, see can bearded dragons have parsley.
For a worked example of a food that is safe but drags the calcium ratio down badly, see can bearded dragons eat corn.
For a root vegetable with a better ratio than you would expect, see can bearded dragons eat radishes.
Dusting is only as good as the powder you use. See best calcium supplements for bearded dragons.
