Can Bearded Dragons Eat Dubia Roaches? The Best Feeder
Heads up: this guide contains affiliate links. If you buy through one, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate, TheBeardie earns from qualifying purchases. How we choose what to recommend.
If crickets are the classic bearded dragon staple, dubia roaches are the premium upgrade. They have better nutrition, easier handling, no chirping, and dramatically reduced escape risk — to the point where many experienced keepers consider them the single best feeder insect for bearded dragons. The catches are higher cost, harder availability outside specialty suppliers, and the “ick factor” of feeding roaches. This guide covers exactly why dubias are nutritionally superior, how to set up a self-sustaining colony, proper feeding by age, and when crickets or BSFL might still be the better choice.
- Yes or No: Can Bearded Dragons Eat Dubia Roaches?
- Dubia Roach Nutrition for Bearded Dragons
- Why Dubia Roaches Are Superior to Crickets
- The Size Rule (Same as Crickets)
- How Many Dubia Roaches to Feed by Age
- Gut-Loading Dubia Roaches
- Calcium Dusting Schedule
- How to Feed Dubia Roaches
- Starting a Dubia Roach Colony
- Legality (Important — Banned in Florida)
- Real Concerns and Downsides
- Dubia Roaches vs. Other Feeders
- Dubia vs. Discoid Roaches
- FAQ
Yes or No: Can Bearded Dragons Eat Dubia Roaches?
Yes — and many experienced keepers consider them the best feeder insect available for bearded dragons. Dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia) are a tropical roach species native to Central and South America. They’ve been bred specifically as reptile feeders for decades and have become the gold standard for keepers willing to pay a slight premium for better nutrition and dramatically easier handling.
The reasons dubias outperform crickets are concrete and well-documented: higher protein (22-36% vs 21%), better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (1:3 vs 1:9), silent (no chirping), unable to climb smooth surfaces (no escapes), don’t fly, don’t smell, and live 1-2 years in storage vs 1-3 weeks for crickets. (ExoPetGuides — Feeder Insect Comparison)
The catches: dubias cost 2-3x more per insect than crickets, aren’t sold at most chain pet stores (you’ll order online), require slightly more setup if you want to maintain a breeding colony, and are illegal in Florida due to invasive species concerns. For most keepers outside Florida, the trade-offs strongly favor dubias.
Dubia Roach Nutrition for Bearded Dragons
Here’s what’s in dubia roaches at various life stages:
| Nutrient | Adult Dubias | Dubia Nymphs | What It Means |
|---|---|---|---|
| Protein | ~22-36% | ~22% | Excellent — among highest of feeders |
| Fat | ~7-8% | ~7% | Moderate — supports staple feeding |
| Moisture | ~60% | ~65% | Good hydration |
| Fiber | ~2.9% | ~3% | Lower than crickets — easier digestion |
| Calcium | ~31mg per 100g | ~23mg per 100g | Moderate — best among feeder insects (besides BSFL) |
| Phosphorus | ~91mg per 100g | ~75mg per 100g | Lower than crickets |
| Ca:P ratio | ~1:3 | ~1:3 | Best Ca:P of any common feeder besides BSFL |
| Chitin | Moderate (softer than mealworms) | Soft | Easy to digest |
Note on Protein Variability
You’ll see different protein percentages cited in different sources — anywhere from 22% to 36%. This reflects differences in how the protein is measured (dry weight vs wet weight), the age of the roach, and what it was fed. Either way, dubias consistently rank among the highest-protein feeder insects available.
The Key Numbers vs Crickets
- Dubia Ca:P 1:3 vs Cricket Ca:P 1:9 — dubias are 3x closer to ideal
- Dubia protein 22-36% vs Cricket protein 21% — similar or higher
- Dubia fat 7% vs Cricket fat 6% — virtually identical
- Dubia chitin: softer vs Cricket chitin: similar — both digestible
The protein and fat are similar; the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio is dramatically better. This is the headline reason dubias are recommended over crickets when both are available.
Why Dubia Roaches Are Superior to Crickets
This is the heart of the case for switching. Each advantage matters, and combined they explain why so many experienced keepers eventually move to dubias.
1. Better Calcium-to-Phosphorus Ratio
At 1:3 Ca:P, dubias require less supplementation to deliver balanced calcium than crickets at 1:9. You still need to dust with calcium, but the baseline is much closer to ideal.
2. Higher Protein
Adult dubias can hit 36% protein — significantly more than crickets. This means fewer insects deliver the same protein, which can help with weight management and reduces feeding session length.
3. Silent
Dubias don’t chirp. If your beardie’s enclosure is in a bedroom or shared living space, this alone justifies the switch. Cricket chirping at 2 AM is a real quality-of-life issue for many keepers.
4. Can’t Climb Smooth Surfaces
Dubias have small claws designed for climbing rough surfaces (bark, plant material). They cannot climb glass, plastic, or sealed wood. This means escapes from your beardie’s enclosure or your storage container are nearly impossible. Compare to crickets, which routinely escape and breed in homes.
5. Can’t Fly
Adult male dubias have wings but cannot fly — they can sometimes glide a few inches but cannot achieve actual flight. Adult females are wingless. No flying escape risk.
6. Don’t Smell
Dubia colonies have minimal odor when properly maintained. Cricket frass produces strong ammonia smell that’s hard to mask in shared living spaces.
7. Long Storage Life
Dubias live 1-2 years in proper conditions. Crickets last 1-3 weeks. This means less frequent ordering and less waste from die-off.
8. Can Be Bred Easily
Unlike crickets (which require specific conditions and produce loud chirping males), dubias breed quietly and easily in a basic setup. Many keepers maintain self-sustaining colonies that eliminate ongoing feeder costs entirely.
9. Wide Size Range
Dubias range from 1/8 inch (nymphs) to 2 inches (adults). A single colony can feed both juvenile and adult beardies — choose the appropriate-sized roach for the moment.
10. Lower Parasite Risk
Captive-bred dubia colonies (from reputable suppliers) have dramatically lower parasite loads than crickets. This reduces vet bills and improves long-term beardie health.
The Size Rule (Same as Crickets)
The same fundamental sizing rule applies to dubia roaches as to crickets and all feeder insects:
Never feed dubia roaches larger than the space between your bearded dragon’s eyes.
For complete details on this rule and why oversized prey causes problems, see our crickets feeding guide.
Dubia Sizes by Beardie Age
| Beardie Age | Dubia Size | Common Names |
|---|---|---|
| Hatchling (0-2 months) | 1/8 inch nymphs | “Micro” dubias |
| Juvenile (2-4 months) | 1/4 inch nymphs | Small dubias |
| Juvenile (4-8 months) | 3/8 to 1/2 inch nymphs | Medium-small dubias |
| Sub-adult (8-12 months) | 1/2 to 3/4 inch | Medium dubias |
| Adult (12+ months) | 1 inch adult dubias | Large dubias |
One advantage of dubias over crickets: dubia colonies naturally contain all sizes simultaneously. A single colony provides perfect-sized feeders from hatchling through adulthood.
How Many Dubia Roaches to Feed by Age
Dubias have higher protein and lower fat than crickets but are also larger and more filling. Quantities are different from crickets.
Hatchling (0-3 Months)
| Frequency | Dubias Per Feeding | Daily Total |
|---|---|---|
| 3 feedings per day | 10-20 small nymphs | 30-50 micro dubias (1/4-inch) |
Hatchlings need protein-heavy diets — 80% insects, 20% plants. Offer small dubia nymphs across 3 feedings daily, letting them eat for 10-15 minutes each session.
Juvenile (3-9 Months)
| Frequency | Dubias Per Feeding | Daily Total |
|---|---|---|
| 2 feedings per day | 15-25 medium nymphs | 25-50 medium dubias (1/2-inch) |
Juvenile diet is 50-70% insects, 30-50% plants. Reduce to two feeding sessions per day.
Sub-Adult (9-12 Months)
| Frequency | Dubias Per Feeding | Daily Total |
|---|---|---|
| 1 feeding per day | 10-15 dubias | 10-15 medium-large dubias |
Transition phase where insects decrease and plants increase.
Adult (12+ Months)
| Frequency | Dubias Per Feeding | Weekly Total |
|---|---|---|
| 2-3 feedings per week | 3-5 adult dubias | 10-15 adult dubias per week |
Adult diet is 20% insects, 80% plants. Note: 3-5 adult dubias deliver similar protein to 10-20 adult crickets due to higher protein density.
Gut-Loading Dubia Roaches
Dubias have a 24-72 hour digestive transit time — significantly longer than crickets. This means gut-loading can be more thorough but requires planning.
Gut-Loading Timing
Feed dubias nutritious foods for 24-72 hours before serving to your beardie. Their slow digestion means whatever they eat stays in their system longer and transfers more completely to your beardie.
Best Gut-Load Foods (Same as Crickets)
The food principles are identical to gut-loading crickets — see our crickets feeding guide for the complete list. The top calcium-rich greens:
- Collard greens (232mg calcium per 100g)
- Mustard greens (115mg)
- Dandelion greens (187mg)
- Turnip greens (190mg)
Plus beta-carotene foods (butternut squash, sweet potato, carrots) and commercial gut-load formulas (Repashy Bug Burger, Mazuri, Dubia Diet).
What’s Different About Dubia Gut-Loading
- Longer timing window — 24-72 hours vs 24-48 for crickets
- Better feed consumption — dubias eat consistently rather than sporadically
- Self-feeding colonies — if you maintain a colony, they’re gut-loaded continuously
- Less competition — dubias don’t crowd each other off food like crickets do
Calcium Dusting Schedule
Even with their better Ca:P ratio, dubias still benefit from calcium dusting. Use the same schedule as crickets — see the detailed schedule in our crickets feeding guide.
Quick Summary
| Age | Calcium (no D3) | Calcium with D3 or Multivitamin |
|---|---|---|
| Hatchling (0-3 months) | 4-5x per week | 1-2x per week |
| Juvenile (3-12 months) | 3-4x per week | 1-2x per week |
| Adult (12+ months) | 2-3x per week | 1x per week |
| Senior (10+ years) | 2x per week | 1x every 2 weeks |
Dubia-Specific Dusting Note
Dubias hold dusted calcium powder better than crickets — their slower movement and rougher carapace surface mean less powder is shaken off during transport to the feeding dish. This can mean slightly less powder is needed for the same calcium delivery.
How to Feed Dubia Roaches
Method 1: Feeding Dish (Preferred)
A shallow ceramic or glass dish is the ideal feeding setup for dubias. Place dusted dubias in the dish, and your beardie hunts them within the contained space. The smooth walls prevent escape, and uneaten dubias stay contained for easy retrieval.
Method 2: Tongs (For Babies and Hand-Feeding)
Long reptile feeding tongs work well for offering dubias one at a time. Particularly useful for hatchlings or for building hand-feeding bonds with new beardies.
Method 3: Direct in Enclosure (Adult Beardies)
Drop dusted dubias directly into the enclosure for free hunting. Because dubias can’t climb glass and don’t burrow extensively, escape risk is much lower than with crickets. Still remove any uneaten dubias within 15-30 minutes.
The Cold Slow-Down Trick
If you have fast adult dubias and want to slow them down for easier feeding, place them in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes before feeding. They’ll move more slowly, making them easier for older or less mobile beardies to catch.
Removing Uneaten Dubias
Unlike crickets, dubias won’t bite your sleeping beardie. They also don’t burrow extensively or hide as readily. That said, remove any uneaten dubias from the enclosure within 30 minutes for hygiene and to maintain a clean environment.
Starting a Dubia Roach Colony
One of the biggest advantages of dubias is that they’re easy to breed at home. A small colony can become self-sustaining within 6-12 months, eliminating ongoing feeder costs.
Basic Colony Setup
Container:
- 5-10 gallon plastic tote with secure lid
- Ventilation holes (mesh-screened) in the sides or top
- Smooth interior walls (dubias can’t climb out)
Furniture:
- Egg cartons or cardboard tubes for climbing and hiding
- Shallow water gel/crystal dish (not open water — they drown)
- Shallow food dish
Conditions:
- Temperature: 85-95°F (30-35°C) for breeding (cooler temperatures slow breeding)
- Humidity: 40-60%
- Low light (dubias are nocturnal)
Starting Population:
- For a self-sustaining colony for one adult beardie: 50-100 mixed-sex adults plus 100-200 nymphs
- 1:5 male-to-female ratio (males have wings; females are larger and wingless)
Feeding Your Colony
The same gut-load foods you’d give before a feeding can be fed to your colony continuously:
- Commercial dubia chow (Repashy Bug Burger, Mazuri, Dubia Diet)
- Fresh leafy greens (collard, mustard, dandelion)
- Vegetables (carrot, squash, sweet potato)
- Water gel for moisture
Breeding Timeline
- Adult females birth live young about every 60-65 days
- Each litter: 25-40 nymphs
- Nymphs reach adulthood in 4-6 months at optimal temperatures
- Adults live 1-2 years
A colony of 50-100 adults can produce enough nymphs to feed one adult beardie indefinitely if you allow the colony to establish for 6 months before heavy feeding.
Legality (Important — Banned in Florida)
Why the Florida Ban
Dubias originated in Central and South America and could theoretically establish in Florida’s similar climate. Once established, they could compete with native species. Other states without subtropical climates don’t share this concern, since dubias can’t survive winter freezes.
Discoid Roaches as the Florida Alternative
Discoid roaches (Blaberus discoidalis) are legal in Florida and nutritionally similar to dubias. They’re slightly larger at maturity and have minor handling differences but serve the same role as a premium feeder insect. See the comparison section below.
Real Concerns and Downsides
Cost
Dubias cost 2-3x more per insect than crickets at retail. Online suppliers often offer better pricing in bulk (100-1000 at a time). A self-sustaining colony eliminates this cost over time but requires initial investment.
Availability
Most chain pet stores (PetSmart, Petco) don’t carry dubias. You’ll typically order from specialty online suppliers (Dubia.com, Dubia Roach Depot, Top Hat Cricket Farm, Josh’s Frogs). Shipping is fine when temperatures are reasonable; extreme cold or heat can kill shipments.
“Ick Factor”
They’re roaches. Some people have strong aversions to handling roaches regardless of how well-bred and disease-free they are. This is a real consideration for some keepers — but for most, the aversion fades within days of handling captive-bred dubias.
Florida Illegality
As covered above, dubias are illegal in Florida. Florida residents should use discoid roaches.
Slower Movement
Dubias move much more slowly than crickets. This can be either an advantage (easier to control) or a disadvantage (less hunting stimulation). Some beardies prefer the chase of crickets.
Beardies Sometimes Refuse Them Initially
If your beardie has been raised on crickets exclusively, the transition to dubias may take time. Some beardies refuse new feeders for weeks before accepting them. Persistence and offering hungry usually wins.
Dubia Roaches vs. Other Feeders
| Feeder | Protein | Fat | Ca:P Ratio | vs. Dubias |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dubia Roaches | 22-36% | 7-8% | 1:3 | The premium staple |
| Crickets | 21% | 6% | 1:9 | Cheaper but inferior nutrition |
| Black Soldier Fly Larvae | 17% | 13% | 1.5:1 | Better Ca:P but lower protein |
| Hornworms | 9% | 3% | 1:3 | Hydration variety, lower protein |
| Mealworms | 20% | 13% | 1:7 | Adult treat only — harder chitin |
| Silkworms | 13% | 2% | 1:3 | Soft-bodied premium variety |
| Discoid Roaches | 20-23% | 7-8% | 1:3 | Similar to dubias; legal in Florida |
| Superworms | 19% | 17% | 1:18 | Adult treat only — too fatty |
When to Choose Dubias
- You want the best staple feeder available
- You live somewhere noise/escapes are problems (apartments, shared spaces)
- You want to eventually maintain a self-sustaining colony
- You’re willing to pay a slight premium for superior nutrition
- Your beardie is any age (they work for all life stages)
When to Stick with Crickets
- You’re on a tight budget
- You need feeders today and can’t wait for shipping
- You only have access to chain pet stores
- You live in Florida or another restricted area
- You enjoy the hunting stimulation crickets provide
Dubia vs. Discoid Roaches
For Florida residents (or anyone curious about alternatives), discoid roaches deserve attention as the legal substitute for dubias.
Similarities
- Similar nutrition (20-23% protein, 7-8% fat, ~1:3 Ca:P)
- Can’t climb smooth surfaces
- Don’t fly meaningfully
- Don’t chirp
- Long lifespan and easy storage
- Can be bred at home
Differences
| Trait | Dubia | Discoid |
|---|---|---|
| Adult size | ~1.5 inches | ~2.5 inches (larger) |
| Florida legal | No | Yes |
| Breeding rate | Moderate | Faster |
| Cost | Higher | Slightly lower |
| Availability | Wide (outside Florida) | More limited |
For most practical purposes, discoids work the same way as dubias. The main difference is that adult discoids may be too large for smaller adult beardies — choose juvenile or sub-adult discoids for moderate-sized beardies.
FAQ
Are dubia roaches better than crickets for bearded dragons?
How many dubia roaches should I feed my bearded dragon?
Can baby bearded dragons eat dubia roaches?
Are dubia roaches legal everywhere?
Can dubia roaches escape my house?
Do I need to gut-load dubia roaches?
Should I start a dubia roach colony?
Why are dubia roaches more expensive than crickets?
The Bottom Line
Dubia roaches are the gold-standard staple feeder for bearded dragons. Better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio than crickets (1:3 vs 1:9). Higher or comparable protein. Silent. Can’t climb smooth surfaces. Don’t smell. Live 1-2 years in storage. Can be bred at home for self-sustaining colonies. The premium cost is real, but the long-term value strongly favors dubias for keepers committed to their beardie’s care.
If you’re starting fresh with a new bearded dragon, start with dubias if you can source them. If you’ve been using crickets and are happy with them, dubias are still worth trying — most keepers who make the switch never go back. For Florida residents, discoid roaches offer the same advantages legally. Build your insect rotation with dubias as the foundation, BSFL for extra calcium, and hornworms for hydration variety.
For the complete diet framework, see our bearded dragon diet pillar. For more on individual feeders, see our guides on crickets and mealworms.
This article is for educational purposes and reflects current best practices in bearded dragon husbandry. Consult an exotic veterinarian for personalized dietary recommendations, especially if your beardie shows signs of feeding issues or nutritional deficiency.
Dubia top the staple list, but they are not the only feeder worth buying. The full list of insects bearded dragons eat covers the alternatives and the ones to avoid.
Sources & Further Reading
- VCA Animal Hospitals — Feeding Bearded Dragons
- Dubia Roach Depot — Dubia Roaches for Bearded Dragons
- DubiaRoaches.com — Dubia Roach Nutrition Facts
- NC State University College of Veterinary Medicine — How to Feed Your Bearded Dragon
- Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) — Find a Reptile Vet
Disclosure: Some links in this article may be affiliate links. We earn a small commission on qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we believe represent best-in-class options for bearded dragon care.
