Bearded Dragon Supplies List: Everything You Need to Start
TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: August 18, 2026 · Last reviewed: August 18, 2026 Researched…
Built from veterinary and university sources
Built from veterinary and university sources
Tank sizing, UVB lighting, heating, substrate, and enclosure setup guides.
Most bearded dragon health problems start in the enclosure. Metabolic bone disease traces back to weak UVB. Impaction traces back to loose substrate and a basking spot that never gets hot enough to drive digestion. Lethargy, refusing food, and glass surfing are usually a tank problem before they are a dragon problem. Get the habitat right and most of the rest of care gets easier.
The current standard for an adult is a 120-gallon enclosure (4×2×2 feet), a T5 HO linear UVB tube, a basking surface of 100–110°F with a cool side of 75–85°F, and 30–40% humidity. Older advice — a 40-gallon tank, a coil UVB bulb, calci-sand — is still everywhere online and still causes the same preventable problems it did ten years ago.
The guides below cover each part of the setup in the order most owners need them. If you are building from scratch, start with the complete setup guide. If you are fixing one thing, jump to that section.
One guide that walks through the whole build, plus the shopping list to go with it.
Size is the first decision because it limits everything after it — lamp distance, temperature gradient, and how much room the dragon has to move between zones. Adults need 4×2×2 feet at minimum; bigger is fine.
UVB is how a bearded dragon makes vitamin D3 and absorbs calcium. Without enough of it, bones soften. Use a T5 HO linear tube mounted at the right distance for its output — the calculator below gives the exact height for your bulb.
Bearded dragons digest with heat. A basking surface of 100–110°F (measured with a temp gun, not a stick-on dial) and a cool side of 75–85°F let the dragon regulate itself. Night drops to 65–70°F are normal for adults and usually need no extra heat.
Solid substrate for juveniles, supervised loose substrate only for adults, and never calci-sand. Humidity should sit at 30–40%. A weekly spot-clean and a monthly deep clean keep parasites and bacteria in check.

TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: August 18, 2026 · Last reviewed: August 18, 2026 Researched…

TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: August 14, 2026 · Last reviewed: August 14, 2026 Researched…

TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: August 14, 2026 · Last reviewed: August 14, 2026 Researched…

TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: July 30, 2026 · Last reviewed: July 30, 2026 Product…

TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: July 30, 2026 · Last reviewed: July 30, 2026 Researched…
Do bearded dragons need heat at night? Usually no. Complete guide to safe nighttime temperatures, why red bulbs are wrong, CHE vs DHP comparison, and thermostat setup.

Bearded dragon enclosure cleaning guide — daily, weekly, and monthly schedules, safe products (F10SC, bleach), dangerous products to avoid, and post-illness protocols.

Compare glass, PVC, wood, and melamine bearded dragon enclosure materials — heat retention, humidity handling, off-gassing safety, DIY considerations, and long-term cost.

Bearded dragon temperature guide — basking surface vs air temp explained, correct zones by age, heating equipment compared, nighttime management, and troubleshooting.

TN By Tyler Nash · Founder, TheBeardie Published: July 3, 2026 · Last reviewed: July 3, 2026 Researched…